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September 18, 2001Rosh Hashanah, Delaware:
There was a swell a kickin down in OC, and Fenwick Island. The waves were usually head high, with about every one out of 3 sets being over head and killer. When we first stepped on the beach we saw two huge waves one after another. These two waves remind me of videos that you see of nice ass waves out in Cali. The waves were barreling like none other. The biggest wave of the entire day had to have been a 9 foot wall of water, moving towards the sand like a tank. I was sitting on the beach watching it and saw Tommy paddling up the face of it. It had a few feet on his board which is 7'6". Life is a Beach.
November 22-25, 2001 Thanksgiving Weekend, OC The Quay:
A weekend of cold small waves that made it only worth the two hours I spent out there. I was joined by two other mates Eddy and Justin. For me I don't think the size of the waves over the weekend were worth the extreme toe numbing ness of the artic water. You were able to get a few good rides out of the sets, but the waves were choppy and sectioned. But the highlight of the two hours was when I got a small barrel which made it all worth it.
December 27-31, 2001 Winter Break, OC The Quay:
I was joined by Eddie and Tommy this time. The new regulars I guess are what we are. The surf on the first 3 days was a solid waist to chest. The biggest wave I saw the entire trip was about an 8 footer. There were good rides to be had. All caught nice rides. We even went out as the sun was setting and stayed out past sun down. I'll try more of that in the summer when you don't freeze. A few pictures were also taken. I'll try to get those up soon.
March 2-3, 2002 Delaware Inlet:
We heard there was going to be a big swell hitting the OC area on March 3rd the Sunday. We left here around 5 on the 2nd. The day we went surfing started at about 6:30 in the morning. The fucking fire alarm went off at that time, which scared the shit out of me as I ran around the apartment trying to figure out what the hell was making such a noise. Once we evacuated the building we went out to the beach and checked out the surf. From what we could see on that misty morning it seemed to be going off. Once we found the place that was best going off. We suited up and hit the surf. The swell was producing consistent over head surf with occasional double. The locals that were out got some badass rides during the times I watched. But I don't do much watching. Anyways, I got some decent rides, got barreled once, did some nice carving, and got swallowed whole. It was a nice day out temps in the 60s but cold water and raining. ~Picture Life
End of Beach Week 2002, OC:
A week of straight drinking had passed. Pure insanity I don't even recall the dates it occurred on, I was so Fing wasted. It was a week that lasted too long, but was one hell of a good time packed with great memories that will last longer than this universe. That last morning was only the 2nd time I hit the water that week, but it was well worth it. I woke up after a crucial night of drinking way too much. I woke up drank three glasses of cranberry juice (the selected chaser for the week considering it was 99 cents for a half gallon or something like that) I also just ate 5 jalapeno poopers. I get to Greg's place and puke in the front yard which was in front of family goers cruising the boardwalk. The puke was soooo red too, an amazing sight I must say. I then hit the waves to find myself in some nice ass surf. The waves were full of power and some nice barrels were forming. They were sectioned but what the hell are you going to ask for when you are experiencing a horrible hangover. Anyways I got a fatass barrel and was completely stoked still am. Due to the hangover I had to cut my time in the water short, but the waves died down once I left the water. Best Hangover Ever? I think so.
peace
July 23-24, 2002 Assateague:
This was one of the most event filled trips of them all, most of the time we sit around Eddie's condo waiting for the surf to be good or to get the motivation to go out and at night we sit in front of the damned TV watching movies and playing GTA3 or something. We left sometime around 2ish on Tuesday to go down to Assateague, it was hot as all hell outside but who cares we're going to the beach. We got down to the campsite and set up tents and what not. Thomas and I setup our tent in a flash, if we were on Survivor we would have like won or something. Tommy, Brian and Amir (Official Site Idiot) take for damn ever cause they are slow or something, but apparently it was Amir's fault, didn't read the directions (that's why he is the site idiot), but whatever. Soon after we all hit the water cause that is what we came for, we heard of a south swell pushing through, so what the hell why not? The waves were fairly decent, but sectioned 3-5 footers. I caught some nice ones, but that damned swell pushed us far as hell up the beach, which made for a nice walk back up to the site right before the sun set. Once Thomas, Brian, and I got back to the site we decided to go to the store and get some food. We ended up getting a shitload of bread and hot dogs too many if you ask me, 40fucking8 of them. Thomas and Brian did some nifty wood stealing, which rocked. After we ate Tommy decided to go to bed, well we started throwing the frisbee around in the dark and I accidentally hit the tent Tommy was trying to sleep in, which was fucking hilarious, but he has different thoughts about that. We get kind of rowdy and the bitches at the next door site start bitching so we move it to the beach. A little later on Thomas and Brian call it a night, so Amir and I are chilling waiting for Eddie and Kyle to get there. When those two arrive they tell us lots of rain is coming our way, and of course I did not believe them, even though when we were playing frisbee there were some wicked clouds cruising around. Well it came and did it. It poured like when you piss in the morning after drinking a lot and you haven't pissed in a long while. Before they got there Amir and I chilled in the bathhouse and we ended up having to for longer cause of the damned rain. We set up Eddie's tent in the shelter and used it as an umbrella to get back to our site. We chilled in his tent until my foot was in a puddle of water. So we went back to the bathhouse. We came up with this grand idea of throwing things into the ceiling fans. We toke toilet paper and we got a connection between the two fans it was hella tight. Everyone woke up minutes later, but at that point I was tired. Thomas and I decided to go to bed and when I woke up my entire blanket was soaked. Oh yeah, there was this biker dude and his lady, they were camping near us, and when I passed there tent in the morning her underwear was on his bike and there was an empty 12 pack and bottle of wine, good looks on the action man. Anyways, we woke up early as shit. We headed up to OC and check out the waves. The inlet was looking damn fine. I surfed the inlet while everyone else was up at like 40th. I got some bad ass rides and the surfers out were awesome to watch. I chilled there for a good while, catching waves and watching. I was chilling on the beach with Thomas and then some bodyboarders roll up and go out and they were pretty bad on the style charts. When the last one came out he gave me this nod and I thought he was just saying what's up. But then he says "You impressed by what you saw." He is obviously an ego tripping fool; I mean he is a little bit better than I. I'll give him that much, but does any sport need these type of people hell no. But they're out there. But there was this other dude out there, which I named "Dude." He was the man all his moves he did were effortless and he pulled them off with such grace and smoothness, he had style. Something those fools need to learn. Anyways I had fun out there, got barreled (one of the more beautiful and cooler things one can experience), did some 360s, and carved and nuts like that. And I embarrassed the hell out myself in front of a lifeguard I was riding the wave perfectly and I toke my eyes off the line for a sec and when I looked back the lip was peeling over and just tossed me with it. It was fun so what the hell. Didn't catch much of what everyone else was doing, never really do, I dunno why. I saw Kyle go for a reverse 360 was looking sweet till he got caught up by the wave in the lip. Same goes with Thomas. So we get back to our site and we munch down and Eddie heard of a good break on the island, we go to it and I sleep in the car with my feet hanging out the window with rain drops hit them which is extremely relaxing. I was sleeping while they were surfing, which I hear was awesome and I missed out, oh well. And we got pulled over on the way there. On the way back to the site everyone was miserable and it started raining again so they all said "FUCK" and we decided to cut the trip short and head home instead of living in hell another night. Tip: Don't but hotdogs from a grocery store for a 24 pack for like 2 bucks.
Have fun or something, just don't suck. Peace.
The Month of September 2002 Nags Head, NC:
I've been doing a lot of procrastinating on this one, I should have put this up when it happened, but I didn't, I was being a bit of a lazt ass bum, but hey when am I not? The first time me and Adam went out surfing was the weekend of Labor Day. The waves this weekend were the damn best I've been in for three days on the East Coast. These waves had lots of power too, I mean they were like head high and I've been in double head and those didn't have the intensity of this swell. The first day was a wreck, but there were waves and as an East Coaster that doesn't get to the water as much as I'd like to, you go out when there is any swell, hell you go out when there aren't really waves there anyways. The next day it cleared up real nice powerful as hell still, but nice clean waves, and the same for the next. My memory is draw a blank on specific details of how I surfed and others around me, but I do remember how well those waves were coming in and breaking. I think we went down the next weekend too, but the one after that was pretty cool, it was the weekend of the East Coast Championship and the first day the waves were small, but rideable and I got a chance to ride Adam's dad's longboard, this is like the third or fourth time I have ever ridden a surfboard. I mean I may act like a surfer, but I am not, I like the sport a lot and respect it even more. I've been wanting a longboard for the longest time, and my 5 foot skateboard isn't helping esspecially lately. I stood up like twice and even that is a good feeling. I'm not going to give up on Bodyboarding either, but this is the reason this is no longer really a BBing site, never really was, but it is okay.
Surfing rules, the ocean is better, but love is the best. ~Find something believe in it and know what you are talking about then follow it. Later
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